It usually happens around the second week of September. You put a coat on for the first time and it's a brilliant feeling. Then it's two layers of wool until about March.

That's the thing about autumn jewellery. The pieces change. Earrings get bigger. Brooches come back out. The hardware gets chunkier and heavier, because it can.

Big earrings

The ones that felt heavy in a heatwave are the ones that work now. Against black, burgundy or camel wool they look completely different, and with a roll-neck they come into their own. A plain block of colour right up to your face means an earring can be enormous and still feel minimal. There's no point in a tiny stud once you're in knitwear. It just disappears.

This is also where I think we're moving on from the bold-and-gold look that has dominated the last few years. It's getting more experimental, a bit whimsical. Dopamine dressing, I suppose they call it.

Brooches

This is when I start looking at brooches again. A coat is the only thing that really does them justice. There's enough weight in the fabric to take a proper vintage brooch and enough space around it for you to actually see it.

When I started Jagged Metal, things were much more designer-led. It had to have a logo on it and there was something quite serious about that. Now there's far more permission to be odd. Big leaves, insects, crests, old gold finishes. A bit witchy, a bit seasonal. I'm all for it.

I like one, quite high on the lapel. That's the classic way. Lately I've been wearing two or three together, because it lifts the whole coat and feels less expected.

Statement pendants

I sold a lot of these about ten years ago, then everyone wanted fine chains and layering. That's lovely for summer. In autumn a chunky pendant does more for an outfit, for less, and you can actually see it over a jumper. A delicate necklace and a scarf are just annoying together: the necklace ends up hidden underneath or caught in it. I'd rather wear one big pendant where it reads. The fine chains can wait until spring.

Scarf rings

Scarves are back, and I'm glad, because for years I'd put one on, decide it was too much or a bit old-fashioned, and take it off at the door. Now maximalism has returned. Everyone's a bit sick of luxury that looks the same and nobody has much cash, so small things start to matter.

Which is what led me to scarf rings. Women wore them as a matter of course in previous decades and we've rather lost the knack. A scarf can look bulky and unresolved when you just knot it. A ring pulls it together and makes it look deliberate. I've got a couple in the collection so far.

Statement Bracelets

Nobody sees a bracelet in November. You can wear one, and I do, but under a jumper and a coat you're wearing it for yourself. So the ones that work now are bigger: a cuff, a stack, something with enough presence to show when the sleeve rides up. The dainty ones go away.

That's the pattern, really. The bracelets rest and the earrings, brooches and chains come out. It's one of the things I like about jewellery. You don't need new pieces every season. You just start noticing different ones again.