Understanding vintage costume jewellery marks is the key to dating and identifying signed designer pieces. From Chanel and Dior to Givenchy, Trifari, Monet and Napier, the stamp on the back can reveal era, maker and value.

The back of a piece of vintage jewellery often tells you more than the front ever will. Turn it over, study the clasp, examine the stamp, and you can usually narrow down the maker and the era.

Learning to read marks is one of the most useful skills in buying, selling or collecting vintage costume jewellery. It is not foolproof, but it gives you a strong starting point.

Most major costume jewellery houses developed their own signature systems. Many changed those systems over time. Once you know the patterns, you can often place a piece within a fairly tight date range simply by looking at the reverse.

The copyright symbol: a useful shortcut

There is one broadly helpful rule for American costume jewellery.

In 1955, a US court decision involving Trifari, Krussman & Fishel and Charel Co. confirmed that costume jewellery designs could qualify for copyright protection as works of art. Following that ruling, many American manufacturers began adding the copyright symbol © to their marks.

Because so much vintage costume jewellery on today's market was made in the US, this becomes a practical guideline:

• If you see © on an American-made piece, it was likely produced after 1955.
• If you do not see ©, the piece may be earlier, or it may simply predate that company's adoption of the symbol.

Adoption was not universal or immediate, so this is a strong indicator rather than a guarantee.

European fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior and Givenchy followed different marking systems, which are best understood brand by brand.

Chanel

Chanel has one of the most documented marking systems in costume jewellery, although there is overlap between periods and some variation between manufacturers.

Early pieces Jewellery from the 1920s through the house's wartime closure was often unsigned. Pieces marked "Chanel" in flowing cursive script are typically by the American Chanel Novelty Company, later renamed Reinad, and are not connected to the Paris fashion house.

1950s to early 1970s After the house reopened in 1954, jewellery began to be marked more consistently, often simply CHANEL in block capitals, stamped directly into the metal or placed on a small rectangular plaque. Some early examples feature decorative details beneath the name, though interpretation of these marks varies among collectors.

1970s By the 1970s, circular plaques became common. These typically included CHANEL, a copyright symbol, sometimes a registered trademark symbol, the interlocking CC logo and MADE IN FRANCE. Exact formats varied and sometimes overlapped.

1980s In the early 1980s, plaques began to incorporate year references. Mid-1980s pieces introduced oval plaques and seasonal indicators. Numbering systems evolved during this period and are not always entirely linear.

1990s onwards From the early 1990s, a format emerged that remains familiar today: an oval plaque showing the last two digits of the year on one side of the CC logo and a letter indicating the collection on the other. For example:

• P for Printemps (spring)
• A for Automne (autumn)
• C for Cruise
• V for the continuous line

So "95P" indicates spring 1995.

A practical note: plaques can detach over time, particularly on later pieces where they were glued rather than soldered. A missing plaque does not automatically mean a piece is inauthentic, but any present plaque should be crisp, legible and well finished.

As always with Chanel, quality of construction, weight and finishing matter as much as the mark itself.

Christian Dior

Dior's jewellery history is shaped by licensed production. Different manufacturers in different countries produced pieces for the house, and many signed their work alongside the Dior name.

Late 1940s to mid 1950s Early pieces were produced by various Parisian artisans and are often unsigned or simply marked "Made in France".

From 1952 to 1956, Mitchel Maer produced jewellery in London marked "Christian Dior by Mitchel Maer." These pieces are highly sought after. In the US, Kramer of New York produced pieces marked "Christian Dior by Kramer" or "Kramer for Dior."

Mid 1950s onwards Henkel & Grosse of Pforzheim, Germany began producing Dior jewellery in the mid-1950s and continued for decades. Many pieces from the late 1950s and 1960s carry oval cartouches reading "Christian Dior" or "Chr. Dior," often with a copyright symbol and sometimes a year and "Germany."

By the 1980s, larger plaques reading "Christian Dior Boutique" became common. In the 1990s, marks simplified again to "Chr. Dior" or "Dior," often without dates.

Genuine vintage Dior typically feels well made and substantial, but weight alone is never proof of authenticity. Finish, plating quality and precision of detail are equally important.

Givenchy

Givenchy expanded more significantly into costume jewellery in the late 1960s, with a particularly strong and collectible period beginning in the mid-1970s.

Pieces from roughly 1975 to 1980 are often dated and are widely considered among collectors to represent a high point in design and finish. Gold plating from this era tends to be durable and richly toned.

Markings vary and may include:

• Givenchy
• GIVENCHY Paris
• Givenchy Paris New York
• Givenchy Paris New York Germany

Manufacturing locations shifted over time, which explains the geographic references.

Two recurring design elements help with identification:

• The 4G logo, formed by four stylised Gs arranged in a square.
• The double G clasp, commonly seen on 1970s and early 1980s necklaces and bracelets.

Some pieces were sold as part of sets and may be unsigned. In these cases, construction details, finishing and overall design language become especially important.

Monet

Monet began as Monocraft Products in 1929. Early pieces stamped MONOCRAFT in block capitals date to the company's first decade and are relatively scarce.

From 1937, the Monet name was adopted more broadly, though there was some overlap during the transition period.

MONET in block capitals appears through the 1940s and 1950s. After 1955, many pieces include the copyright symbol.

By the 1980s, the flowing script "Monet" signature was common. This covers a large portion of what is available on the vintage market.

Monet was known for strong engineering, including innovations in earring backs and triple plating processes. Pre-2000 pieces are generally considered superior in finish compared to later production after ownership changes and overseas manufacturing.

Trifari

Trifari's marks provide a useful timeline.

Mid 1920s to 1937 KTF, standing for Krussman, Trifari and Fishel, appears with a larger central T. These pieces are scarce and collectible.

Late 1930s to mid 1950s The Crown Trifari mark, with a crown above the T, was introduced in the late 1930s and became the company's signature. Pieces from this period are often associated with the brand's mid-century strength.

After 1955, the Crown Trifari mark frequently includes the copyright symbol.

During the Second World War, sterling silver was used due to base metal restrictions. These pieces are clearly marked sterling and form a distinct collector niche.

1970s onwards The crown was dropped in the 1970s. Later marks include italicised Trifari and eventually TRIFARI TM in block letters. In the mid-1990s, some reissues were dated, which can be mistaken for earlier originals if not examined carefully.

Trifari generally signed its pieces consistently, though very early exceptions exist.

Napier

Napier is more difficult to date by mark alone.

The block NAPIER stamp introduced in the early 1920s was used, with relatively minor variation, for decades. As a result, a 1920s and a 1960s piece can look very similar in marking style.

Helpful clues include:

• Presence of © indicating post-1955 production.
• Script variations introduced in the mid-1960s.
• The distinctive "NAPiER" format with a lowercase i introduced in the 1990s.
• Sterling pieces marked "Napier Sterling," with subtle font differences across the 1940s and early 1950s.

With Napier, construction, weight, plating quality and design context are often more reliable dating tools than the mark alone.

The supporting cast

Avon jewellery is usually clearly marked and was produced in large quantities from the 1970s onwards. Quality varies.

Sarah Coventry operated from 1949 into the 1990s and sold exclusively through home parties. Marks include "Sarah Coventry," "Sarah Cov." and "SaC."

Coro, Corocraft and Vendome represent different tiers within the same company, which operated until 1979. As with other American manufacturers, many pieces made after 1955 include the copyright symbol.

What the marks cannot tell you

A correct mark is only the beginning. Marks are the easiest element to reproduce. Fakes exist for every major brand.

Always assess:

• Weight and balance
• Quality of plating
• Precision of stone setting
• Condition of clasps and hinges
• Overall coherence of design

Marks give you a vocabulary. Construction gives you confirmation.

Once you understand both, every charity shop, flea market and online listing becomes a quiet act of detective work. And that is where the real pleasure lies.