By Jagged Metal

Vintage Yves Saint Laurent jewellery moves across multiple aesthetics depending on the decade. It resists a single definition, which is part of what makes it interesting to collect.

The key periods

Late 1960s–70s
YSL incorporated jewellery into his collections from early on, with a more defined costume jewellery programme developing through the 1970s. Pieces from this period are material-led: wood, resin, beads and metal, often drawing on global references. The 1967 Africa collection is an important reference point. Designers such as Roger Scemama and Robert Goossens contributed significantly.

1980s
The aesthetic shifts toward architectural, gold-dominant jewellery aligned with power dressing. From 1981, Monet produced licensed YSL jewellery for the US market, identifiable by Monet-style clip mechanisms and finishing.

1990s
Early in the decade the look becomes slightly cleaner. By the later 90s, logo-led pieces become more prominent, with the YSL monogram used visibly in design.

The role of Loulou de la Falaise

Loulou de la Falaise was central to YSL jewellery from the 1970s onward.

She worked with multiple specialist manufacturers, each focused on different materials and techniques. The result is jewellery that often feels assembled rather than engineered. Slight irregularity is characteristic rather than a flaw.

Marks and dating

• “YSL” monogram → used from the 1970s onward
• “Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche” → typically 70s–80s
• “YSL Made in France” → standard French production
• “Saint Laurent Paris” → post-2012, not vintage

Earlier pieces tend to be less logo-driven. If the monogram is part of the design, it is often later — late 80s or 90s.

What to look for

• oversized scale
• mixed materials
• slight irregularity
• solid construction

The strongest pieces feel intentional rather than overly refined.

What’s worth collecting

• 1970s material-led statement pieces
• 1980s sculptural gold jewellery
• Monet-produced YSL from the 1980s
• pieces with a clear design identity

The bottom line

YSL jewellery is less about precision and more about presence.