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1970s Fashion

A Celebration of 1970s Jewellery

Authenticating Vintage Chanel Costume Jewellery 


Chanel Signatures and Markings


Chanel vintage costume jewellery often features markings or signatures that can help to authenticate the piece. The markings can be found in a variety of locations, such as on the back of the piece, on the clasp, or on a small plaque attached to the piece. These markings can include the Chanel logo, the word "Chanel," or the letters "CC."

It is important to note that not all authentic Chanel vintage costume jewellery will have markings or signatures. Some pieces were produced before Chanel began using these markings, or the markings may have been removed or worn away over time. However, if a piece does have markings, it is a good indication of its authenticity.

Chanel is a brand that has always been associated with luxury, elegance, and sophistication. One of the most popular aspects of Chanel's product line is their costume jewellery, which has become synonymous with timeless designs and high-quality craftsmanship. However, with the popularity of vintage Chanel costume jewellery, there has been an increase in counterfeit pieces in the market. As a result, it is essential to be able to authenticate Chanel vintage costume jewellery before making a purchase. In this blog post, we will outline some key things to look out for when authenticating Chanel vintage costume jewellery.

1950s -1960s Chanel Marks


In 1954, Coco opened her store on Rue Cambon. Costume bijouterie was made to enhance her couture pieces. At this time she used gold plated metal set with enamel, gripoux and faux baroque pearls.  This was the era when her iconic crosses, extra long sautoirs, oversized earrings, and camellia brooches designed by Robert Goosens first appeared. Coco and Goosens took their inspiration from Byzantium, Etruscan and Renaissance eras, as well as Maltese and Celtic design.

In the 1950’s and 1960s, a simple CHANEL stamp was used which was used until 1971. You may also see stars under Chanel which denotes a slightly later piece from the 60s or early 70s.


1970s Chanel Marks 


From 1974 onwards a round plate was introduced with a copyright sign and a registered trademark, with the overlapping CC and MADE IN FRANCE. In 1982, MADE IN FRANCE was replaced by the date.


1980s Chanel Marks 


In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld joined Chanel, and in 1984  Victoire de Castellane. In 1985, the plate became oval, the date removed and the copyright sign appears next to the CC logo.  Victoire de Castellane worked for Chanel for 14 years until 1998. 

From 1986 to 1992, CHANEL appeared on an oval plate with the copyright sign on each side; with MADE IN FRANCE, and the overlapping CC logo in a circle; with the number 2 on the left and another number on the right - standing for seasons. For example, 1 or 2 on the right means season 21 or 22 up to 29. Sometimes these oval plates will be seen as tags. 

1990s Chanel Marks and beyond

In 1993, Chanel started using a double-digit figure denoting the year and the letter ‘P’ (‘printemps’ for spring) or ‘A’ (‘automne’ for autumn). 96 A would means the Autumn-Winter collection of 1996. This mark is still used today except that MADE IN FRANCE is usually MADE IN ITALY and is less likely to appear on a plate.

Recently, the letter ‘C’ has been added for cruise collection pieces and the mark is now often seen on the clasp. 




The materials used in Chanel vintage costume jewellery are a key factor in determining its authenticity. Until the early 2000s, Chanel used high-quality materials, such as 24 Carat gold-plated metal, poured glass gripoix stones, hand-crafted baroque faux pearls with a unique luminosity and rhinestones with a brilliant sparkle. They are often set in a way that allows the light to reflect off them, creating a stunning effect.




Until the 2000s Chanel has been renowned for their attention to detail and craftsmanship. Chanel vintage costume jewellery is no exception, and the quality of the craftsmanship is a key factor in authenticating a piece. When examining a piece of Chanel vintage costume jewellery, look for evidence of high-quality workmanship, such as clean edges, smooth surfaces, and well-defined patterns. The pieces should be well made and not appear cheap or flimsy. The design should be well-balanced, and the materials should be integrated seamlessly.





The condition of a piece of Chanel vintage costume jewellery can also be a key factor in determining its authenticity. Chanel jewelry is of high quality and is designed to last for many years. If a piece looks brand new, it may be a sign that it is a counterfeit. Conversely, if a piece looks worn or damaged, it may also be a sign that it is not authentic.

When examining a piece of Chanel vintage costume jewelry, look for signs of wear and tear, such as scratches, dents, or discoloration. These signs of wear can be an indication of the piece's age and authenticity.


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